Scotland Off the Beaten Track

Angus | Edzell | Waterfall | ★★

The wooded banks of the West Water near Edzell Castle have long been a popular local beauty spot. Sadly modern visitors have until recently been prevented from exploring far beyond the picnic benches due to the closure of Pirner's Brig: named after the pirn in weaving terminology, this being the business of the bridge's benefactor. This rusting crossing is now open again (or was on our visit anyway), with a rough path leading upstream into quieter surroundings on the other side. After following the top of a shallow gorge for about 500 metres, you'll be able to descend - with care - to a set of unnamed but attractive rapids, no doubt spectacular in spate.

Location & info

📌 Pirner's Brig ★★
On the West Water, off minor road 1 mi east of Edzell. Main rapids are at G.R.: NO 573689 ///handrail.doubts.losses
Always open | Free

Anything else? From the car park at G.R.: NO 578689 ///gratitude.loom.pounce it's a 10-min walk to the rapids pi…

Angus | Edzell | Edzell Castle | ★★★

Edzell Castle was built as a tower house by the Earls of Crawford in the 16th century. Numerous extensions (now ruinous) and walled gardens came in the following decades - including a cute summer house at one corner. Today, the smooth lawns and works of art still perfectly complement the sandstone castle brickwork: Edzell Castle is one of Historic Scotland's most underrated locations. I mean, how could you resist a property with semi-tame peacocks strutting about everywhere?


Location & info

📌 Edzell Castle and Garden★★★
Off minor road 1 mi west of Edzell village, G.R.: NO 585691 ///scary.essential.club
Open daily, April to September | £6 adult / £3.60 child / free for Historic Environment Scotland members

Highland | Tarbet | Nature reserve | ★★★★

About a mile wide and slightly more in length, Handa Island has an illustrious history for an island of its small stature in such a seemingly remote location. With its own parliament and even its own Queen (the oldest surviving widow), the 1848 potato famine spelled the end for island life here. Since then, seabirds have ruled the roost and are the main reason for visiting today. 200,000 seabirds reside here between approximately April and July, spread across over 150 species and including 100,000 guillemots and (from mid-May onwards) decent numbers of puffins. Once the Handa Ferry deposits you at the southwest corner of the island you're free to explore the paths in either direction - they form a rough circuit over much of the island. Most of the puffins nest on a stack off the northern side of the island, visible from the main path - take some binoculars! But even without the puffins there's plenty to enjoy, including the spectacular…

Highland | Tarbet | Boat trip | ★★

For most, the Handa Ferry is really a means to an end: a way to access the beautiful scenery and 200,000 seabirds on Handa Island. But the 2 mile direct trip (more if you're on a wildlife cruise) is a minor adventure in itself, from the often bouncy crossing to the rickety wooden, portable platform that "helps" you alight on one of Handa's beaches - the exact one depends on wave conditions. Arrive early and spend a little time exploring Tarbet: an idyllic seaside hamlet, accessed by scenic lanes through craggy terrain splattered with lochans.


Location & info

📌 Handa Ferry★★
Ferry departs from Tarbet pier, Port of Tarbet, G.R.: NC 164489 ///canoe.urban.drilled
Carries: Passengers
Boats depart Monday to Saturday in "summer season" (probably early April to early September). May to July is best for puffin watching | £15 adult / £5 child for return trip

Highland | Loch Eriboll | Half day walk | ★★★★

Creag na Faoilinn... where, exactly? This diminutive and little-known hill probably receives fewer visitors in a year than many summits get in a day, but its views surpass those from many Munros. From the top, there are great views up Strath Beag into the heart of the wilderness between Foinaven and Ben Hope, sunlight glinting off numerous silvery quartzite outcrops. But it's Loch Eriboll to the north that takes the breath away: laid out like a map and punctuated only by the remote Eilean Choraidh. Views from the coast road have nothing on this. The side of the hill facing the road is unassailable and few visitors means no paths up this hill, but a short and pathless circuit is possible using the gentler slopes round the back.


📌 Walk: Creag na Faoilinn - all eyes on Eriboll ★★★★
Start / finish at track junction (probably space for a single car only - don't block access or passing places - or look further along the road) on A838, h…