Scotland Off the Beaten Track

Argyll & Bute | Oban | Museum & castle | ★★★

Oban can feel a bit claustrophobic on summer weekends, so on a busy day it might be wise to head up the coast road to the north. Dunollie Castle sits perches precariously on a rocky bluff overlooking the main ferry routes out of Oban Bay. The estate is currently a good option for escaping the crowds despite gradually becoming better known; the visitor experience is low-key, but several aspects add up to quite a lot. As well as the ruined castle, newer Dunollie House (dating to 1745) is now a museum about the MacDougall clan, with an old weaving cottage and woodland walks also open to visitors.


📌Dunollie★★★
Location: Off Ganavan Road, a mile north of Oban, G.R.: NM 852315 ///economics.missions.ruin
Open (2019): Daily, April to late October
Cost (2019): £6 (adults), £3 (children)

Argyll & Bute | Achnamara | Castle | ★★

Castle Sween lies a winding half hour drive along single track roads across the remote region of Knapdale. Few tourists venture this far, but they could be missing out on Scotland's oldest castle: built around the end of the twelfth century, none of its contemporaries can be dated with enough confidence to wrestle away the title. Backed by rugged hills and overlooking Loch Sween atop a rocky prominence, the obvious lack of windows reflects the overriding need for defence at all costs. But when visiting there's an unwelcome neighbour - a large caravan site occupying the surrounding land. Considering there's not exactly competition for space around here it's a bit disappointing, and does detract a bit from the atmosphere. At least a screen of trees partly separates old from new.


📌Castle Sween★★
Location: Off minor road 7 miles south of Achnamara, G.R.: NR 712788 ///bagpipes.perfume.servicing
Open: Always
Cost: Free
Anything else? P…

Argyll & Bute | Taynish | Village & nature reserve | ★★

This area of rolling countryside jutting into Loch Sween is undisturbed even by Knapdale's own isolated standards. Tayvallich is the peninsula's "capital", idyllically set around a perfect natural harbour with a few essential services and a couple of places to eat. We can recommend the coffee shop on the water's edge for lunch. The nature reserve lies to the south: age-old woodland drowning in lichen (a sign of the exceptionally clean air) runs down to several sea lochs, with a good chance of spotting otters in the shallows here. 126-metre high Bàrr Mòr rises above the forest with views with superb views over seemingly endless trees and water. There are two manmade, ruined structures worth a visit - Taynish Mill and a surprisingly ornate piggery. Allow a day (with good weather) to explore the area properly.


📌Tayvallich★★
Description: Picturesque fishing village on a sheltered inlet of Loch Sween.
Locat…